Portrait Photography Tips And Tricks – In this article, we’ll give you 10 easy-to-follow tips that will make your portraits look great in no time.
Framing is a technique where you draw attention to an element of an image by framing it with another element of the image.
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You can do this by placing your subject in a window or doorway, looking at them through a small pinhole, or using their hand around their face. See more examples of framing in photography here.
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Shooting with a wide angle lens attached to your camera can help create some memorable images when doing portrait photography.
At very wide focal lengths, you can create incredible distortion. It might not be the kind of picture you take of your wife or girlfriend (unless she’s in a playful mood), but using this focal length will magnify the face or body parts that are on the edge of the picture more than they should be. In the picture. center
It can also give a wide-open and dramatic effect when your subject is in a dominant setting.
The person in your portrait is the main point of interest – but sometimes placing them in a different context with a different background can dramatically change the mood of the image.
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Many photographers get stuck in a rut where they only shoot either ‘landscape’ (when the camera is held horizontally) or ‘portrait’ (when the camera is held vertically). Look back through your photos and see which ones you mainly use.
Just because the vertical frame is called ‘portrait’ mode doesn’t mean you should always use it when taking portraits. Mix up your framing in every photo you make and add variety to the photos you take.
Horizontal and vertical frames aren’t the only options when it comes to portraits. While getting your shots straight can be important when shooting in this format, holding your camera at a more oblique angle can also add some fun to your shots.
This type of framing can add a sense of fun and energy to your photos. Just don’t make it ‘easy’ or you’ll end up wondering if you accidentally held your camera sideways.
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As photographers, we drum up ‘sharp focus’ as the ultimate goal to achieve in our work – but sometimes a lack of focus can create images with real emotion, mood and interest.
1. Focus on one element of the image and leave your main subject blurred. To do this, use a large aperture, which will create a narrow depth of field and focus on something in front or behind your subject.
2. Leave the entire image out of focus. To do this again, choose a wide aperture, but focus well in front or behind everything in your shot (you’ll need to switch to manual focus to achieve this).
Portraits can be so static – but what if you add some movement to it? This can be achieved in several ways:
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The key to the above three methods is to use a shutter speed slow enough to capture the motion.
An alternative is to make your subject move quickly, but use a shutter speed fast enough that it ‘freezes’ their movement.
One way to make sure your subject grabs the attention of the viewer of your portrait is to fill the frame with their face.
That’s not what you want in every photo you take – but if your subject is the only feature in the photo – there’s really nowhere else to look.
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I have a friend who regularly walks the streets around Melbourne looking for interesting people to photograph.
When he finds someone he finds interesting, he walks up to them, asks if they’ll pose for him, quickly finds a suitable backdrop, and then immediately fires off a handful of shots (if they’ll let him). is, of course).
The result is that he has one of the most stunning collections of photographs of people of all ages, races and backgrounds.
While many of us spend most of our time photographing our loved ones – perhaps it would be an interesting exercise to shoot interesting strangers once in a while?
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So there you have it. 10 ways to add variety to your portraits. But what did I miss that you would add? I’m sure if we put our heads together we could come up with lots of other techniques and ideas to add some variety to our portrait photography. Looking forward to reading your suggestions in the comments below.
He lives in Melbourne Australia and is also the editor of ProBlogger Blog Tips. Follow him on Instagram, on Twitter at @digitalPS or on Google+. From “portrait mode” to “slowies” (slow motion selfies), the technological advancements of the last few years have taught us that portrait photography is for everyone, whether you have a DSLR or a camera phone.
On social media, a quick scroll through trending hashtags like #PostMorePortraits, #Portrait_Perfection and #AGameofPortraits confirms that the art of portraiture is alive and well in the modern age. Indeed, many photographers today turn to history to inspire their work; While some Chanel Renaissance painters played with contrast with a dramatic chiaroscuro effect, others converted their paintings to black and white.
In honor of this tried-and-true style, let’s take a look at some of the most common lighting patterns used for portraits over the years—and how to set them up. You can use window lights for some of these or you can use studio lights of your choice.
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For now, we’ll just look at lighting conditions and how they play across the face, and we’ll focus on the setup you can achieve with just one light source. This is easy to learn with continuous lighting so you can observe patterns in real time, but you can also use strobes if you prefer.
Butterfly lighting gets its name from the small shadow shape that appears under the nose when you place the light source slightly above the camera, pointing down at the face. It is also centered directly in front of the model rather than to the left or right.
The higher you place the light, the lower the shadow; Put it too low and you won’t get a nice butterfly shape, but move it too high and the shadow will stretch down the face and onto the chin. An angle of about 25 to 45 degrees above the face should be a good starting point, although you’ll want to make adjustments based on the shape of the face.
This type of lighting is perfect for creating flattering shadows under the cheekbones and helps even out the complexion. One thing to watch out for is the pronounced shadow on the chin, but you can always use another softbox or map to fill it in underneath. If you use a fill lamp for this purpose, it is called “clamshell” lighting.
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Butterfly lighting is also called “paramount lighting” because many stars of Hollywood’s Golden Age insisted on being photographed exclusively with this pattern.
This pattern, named after the Dutch painter, occurs when the subject’s nose shadow and cheek shadow form a triangle of highlights on the other side of the face. To get this look, simply place your key light at roughly an angle. 45 degrees to the side and point down at your subject.
If you’re working with studio lighting, move your keylight up or down until you see the signature triangle below the eye, or just turn your model’s head slightly to get the right position. Aim to create a triangle as wide as the eye above it and no wider; The highlighted triangle also needs to be closed before it goes through the nose, so it may require some fine-tuning depending on the model’s face.
Also, don’t be afraid to use natural window light; Remember to close the window if it’s on the long side, as all the light should be coming from above your subject. Regardless of your light source (natural or artificial), you want to make sure it’s very diffused, as in the case of softboxes or window shades.
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As you might have guessed from the name, this type of lighting results in dramatic, moody portraits. If the shadows on the other side of the face are too dark, use a fill card to flatten them until you like them. If there is no card you can also bring a feel light.
This pattern also occurs when the shadow from the nose falls on the face, but unlike Rembrandt lighting, it never completes the closed triangle of light meeting the shadow on the cheek. For this, you want to get your keylight somewhere between the Rembrandt (about 45 degrees from your subject) and where you had it for your butterfly (directly in front of your subject).
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